Holiday Hiatus and Best Wishes

Holidays are fast approaching and, as you might have noticed, I have not been assiduous in my writing. I have decided to take a writing break in light of the festivities and the running around that comes with them.

I will be back in January with more tales of Korea and the countries that followed. On top of that, I have a little surprise coming up as well. You'll see when January comes.

In the meantime, I wish you all the best in this festive season. Stay safe and enjoy yourselves with your loved ones!

The Two Koreas: The Cold War and the Korean War

To someone who doesn’t know much about the Korean War, it might appear strange that I would bring up the Cold War. The truth is, the Korean War was not only a civil war, but also a proxy war of the Cold War.

However, if you read my previous post about the annexation of Korea by Japan and its release after Japan’s surrender during the Second World War, you will remember that when Japan surrounded Korea, Korea had no government of its own and was temporarily split at the 38^th parallel with the USSR overseeing the North and the United-States overseeing the South. You will also remember that at the time these two powers were allies.

UN stated that democratic elections were to be held for both North and South, until the country could be united again. The split was always meant to be a temporary measure. While the United-States held the said elections, which resulted in Syngman Rhee becoming president; the USSR instead formed a communist state with Kim II-Sung at its head. Finally, by 1949, both the USSR and the United-States had withdrawn from Korea.

Well, as we all know today, the relationship between the USSR and the United-States didn’t remain civil long and we saw the emergence of the Cold War. The Cold War was mainly a war of ideology fought through indirect battles. Leaders of these two nations knew that direct fighting would not only most certainly bring about the Third World War, but would most likely destroy them both as they both possessed the nuclear bomb. Perhaps the most well-known indirect war of the time was the Vietnam War, butthe Korean War was another of those proxy war.

The Korean War lasted 3 years, from 1950 to 1953 and had a 3,000,000 death toll. Many atrocities were committed on both sides.

But, if we go back slightly before the war erupted, you can note that when USSR withdrew, it heavily funded and armed North Korea, while the United-States refused to equip South Korea. It seemed the United States had little interest in the country. For this reason, Stalin believed that the country would not get involved.

So it is that, on June 25, 1950, North Korea crossed the 38^th parallel and invaded South Korea with support from Stalin. Now, probably to Stalin’s surprise, the UN Security Council voted unanimously to get involved.

For those who don’t understand what is so special about this particular vote, let me explain quickly. You see, USSR had the right of veto in this particular case. Obviously vetoing a war against itself would have been the best course of action. However, the country was absent from the vote because it was boycotting all UN meetings to protest the fact that the exiled government of the Republic of China (i.e. Taiwan) still held the Chinese seat at the UN.

This is how, against logic really, the motion passed and twenty-one countries of the UN contributed to the defense of South Korea.

So following this decision from the UN, the United-States’ General McArthur led the UN troops, of which 88% were from the United-States. Stalin then pledged to help North Korea, but insisted that Soviet forces were not to directly engage United-States’ troops, to avoid direct fighting and the chance of entering into the direct conflict they wished to avoid.

This led to the UN counter offensive at Inchon that allowed South Korea to push back North Korean troops and  gain control of territories up to the Yalu River. At this point, it looked like South Korea had won. That was until China decided to get involved and pushed back the South Koreans forces to the 38^th parallel. The conflict reached a stalemate at this location for two years before an armistice agreement was signed on July 27^th, 1953. This marked the end of the conflict. This agreement set the border between the Koreas and created the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), a 4 km wide buffer zone between the two countries. It was signed by representatives of the United Nations Command, the North Korean People’s Army, and the Chinese People’s Volunteer Army. It was actually never signed by South Korea.

This is how the two Koreas came about their present state. At this point in time, a reunification seems highly unlikely as the two countries have truly grown apart in so many aspects. And, while the war might be over, the tensions are far from dispelled. In truth, technically, an armistice agreement is not a peace treaty, merely a cease-fire. There are many incidents still between the two countries.

The Two Koreas: The Japanese Annexation

There are many different accounts of the end of the Joseon Dynasty, the beginning of the Korean Empire and of Korea becoming a protectorate of Japan. In some accounts, King Gojong - who was made king by the Queen Dowager when King Cheoljong died without an heir - lacked the intellect to make decisions for himself. In others, Heungseon Heonui Daewonwang - father of Gojong and regent for some time - was an isolationist and is portrayed as a villain, who orchestrated a failed coup against his son. In others, Queen Myeongseong is the meddling villain that controlled the country and the King.

Emperor Gojong

While any one of them, King, Queen and Regent, could be perceived as the good or the bad guys, I am more inclined to go with more moderate versions and think that it was just a matter of having different agendas. In the end though, what I personally think bears little weight.

Regent Daewongun

While he was considered a fair ruler during is regency, the regent ultimately contributed to the fate of the country with his isolationist policies. As for the queen, who had become empress by that time, she surely posed a certain threat to Japan and proved to be an obstacle to Japan's annexation plans, as made clear by the 1895 Eulmi incident during which Empress Myeongseong was assassinated by Japanese agents (I mentioned the assassination in my previous post The palaces of Seoul: Deoksugung).

Empress Myeongseong

The empress, a Korean heroine, was a supporter of Christianity and of the education of women - she founded Ewha University for women. More important to the subject at hand, she tried to counter Japanese interference in Korea by advocating for stronger ties with Russia and China.

This bit of context brings us to 1905, the date of the signature of the Eulsa Treaty, which made Korea a protectorate of Japan. This meant that Korea could no longer conduct diplomatic exchanges. Emperor Gojong did send secret emissaries to the Second International Peace Conference in Hague in an attempt to invalidate the treaty; these emissaries were never heard. In retaliation, on July 18, 1907, Japan made the emperor abdicate in favor of his son.

Six days later, a new treaty came into force that deprived Korea of the administration of its internal affaires: it gave the Japanese Resident-General the right to appoint and dismiss high-ranking officials, stated that these officials had to be Japanese, placed the Korean army under Japanese leadership, and handed over judicial and policing powers.

However, it is only in 1910 with the Korea Japan Annexation Treaty that Korea officially became a colony of Japan. With this, Japan was recognized as having the right to speak on behalf of Korea. This is not surprising, as it was a different context in which imperialism was not considered under the same negative light as today. The treaty of 1910 might seem like the turning point, but really the majority of the foundations had been laid out in the previous treaties.

Now, some say Japan was really just helping Korea. That those saying otherwise are conspiracy theorist or just plain ungrateful. My aim is not to come to a conclusion on this, but to highlight the significance of these events toward the creation of the two Koreas. The point is, when all was said and done, this forced occupation of Korea left the country with no leader of its own.

To conclude for this post, let's jump forward in time to the surrender of the Empire of Japan on September 2, 1945, which brought the end of the Second World War hostilities. I would like to bring your attention to the fact that, in the terms of the surrender, there was a provision that gave their sovereignty back to Taiwan and Korea.

However, with the previous dismantlement of the Korean Empire, there really was no one left to lead the country. To solve this, the United Nations Council temporarily split Korea at the 38th parallel. One half was to be overseen by the USSR and the other half by the United-States. It should be noted that these two countries were allies at the time and that Korea was meant to be reunited in time.

The Two Koreas: Overview

One of the first question that might come to mind when discussing Korea might be why there are two Koreas. Obviously, while being divided into North and South today, it is easy to guess that like most countries, the borders and the fabric of Korea have greatly changed overtime.

There is no doubt in my mind that with powerful neighbors such as China, Japan and Russia, the small territory of Korea has no doubt been under much pressure over time.

As far as territory goes, if we go back in time to the 5th century, we'd see the Three Kingdoms of Korea (the ancient kingdoms of Goguryeo, Baekja and Silla), which looked like this:

(Source: Korea.net)

Then, jumping to the 8th century, we'd see the rise of the North and South States (Unified Silla and Balhae):

(Source: Korea.net)

These states then made way for Goryeo:

(Source: Korea.net)

And, finally, Joseon:

(Source: Korea.net)

Following this, there was the rather short-lived Korean Empire that ended with the onset of the Japanese Colonial rule. These circumstances paved the way for the North Korea and South Korea of today.

While Korea wasn't always a united state, the question of how exactly Korea got to its present division is an interesting one... One that has roots that go deep in somewhat recent conflicts.

The division of Korea is not an issue that should be explored too quickly. I have planned to go into the details of it in my next few posts. I will start with brief descriptions of both countries before diving into the conflicts that led to Korea as it is now, starting with the annexation of Korea by Japan.

Stay tuned, as I should be posting on Wednesday about North Korea.

Korean Food

I have a love affair with world cuisine in general. I drool over delicate European pastries. I sigh in delight at the sight of earthy stews from Eastern Europe. I am fork ready for an Australian BBQ. African, South American, Indian, Asian and Middle-Eastern are just some of the keywords that bring up images of delicious foods in my mind.

I think you get the point: I love trying food... Which is why it goes without saying that South Korea, with its healthy (and sometimes not so healthy) dishes, had me most excited to dig in. In the following post, I give you a quick tour of some of my favorites!

But, first thing first, the chopsticks! You might think you are a pro with them, but you should know that Korean chopsticks are a bit particular in the sense that they are actually flat. It takes a bit of adaptation to actually get the hang of them! However, when you are used to them, it seems like balancing precious rice grains becomes much easier.

Next, most meals I had in Korea came with complementary appetizers. In most cases, it was a simple plate of kimchi, one of the staples of Korean cuisine. Other times, it was a combination of pickled goods. In this way, it really made me think of the pickled condiments you sometimes get at the center of your table during a traditional Quebec dinner.

Other times, the table got filled with numerous little dishes each neatly lined up. Finishing them could quickly become a daunting task if you were aiming at leaving nothing behind!

However, I suspect they wouldn't normally all be consumed by a single person as it is custom in Korea to share food among a group by putting everything in the center. So maybe the staff was too generous by serving me their habitual portions or I was too ambitious by aiming for the finish line.

Lastly, but nonetheless an important detail, I was impressed by the delivery culture here. It seems you can pretty much have anything delivered. While I have not personally witnessed it (for lack of ability of being understood when I tried to order food by phone), I have been told that some places would even deliver and come pick up plates and cutlery after. It seems so unlikely to me, that I can't help but wonder: is this an urban legend?

Kimchi

Ah, the kimchi - the national  Korean dish. This traditional side dish is made out of seasoned vegetables that are fermented, sometimes for months. There are hundreds of varieties of kimchi, but the one I have seen most often was made out of napa cabbage and spices. Red chili, now a common ingredient for kimchi, was really only introduced to Korea after the Japanese invasion at the end of the 1500s. I have rarely seen a dish that defines so much a country - kimchi reflects the seasons and the regions and is deeply rooted in the history of the country.

In Seoul, there is even a Kimchi Museum which, sadly, was closed for funding reasons during my visit.

[Dolsot] Bibimbap

Dolsot bimbimbap was the first dish I had in Seoul. It is a dish I much liked at a Korean restaurant back home (recommended by a friend who spent time in South Korea) and it seems that the restaurant in Ottawa really serves authentic food. The main ingredients are rice, seasoned beef, shiitake mushrooms, fernbrake (a Korean green high in protein), carrots, zucchini, bean sprouts, spinach and egg.

There is a slight difference between bimbimbap and dolsot bimbimbap. In dolsot bimbimbap, the dish is served in a heated stone pot that sears the rice grains and makes a yummy crust at the bottom. Depending where you are, dolsot bimbimbap can be harder to find.

Sadly, which really isn't so bad, bimbimbap was often the only thing I could order when I failed to be understood. So it happened quite a few times that I wanted to try something new, but just couldn't.

Gimbap

The Korean version of rolls and quite delicious in itself. They can be made of various ingredients, but the most common combination seems to be rice, vegetables, pickled radishes, egg and pork.

Pajeon

This pancake type of dish is primarily made out of eggs, flour and green onions. More fancy versions can contain various additional ingredients, including different vegetables, seafood, beef and pork.

Juk

A porridge made of rice and grains. It is a health food and is considered specially beneficial when you are fighting illness. It comes in a myriad of ways, from plain to seasoned with vegetables, nuts and seafood.

I had this twice, once a jeonbokjuk made with abalone in Busan and another time a miyeok juk made with seaweeds on Jeju Island.

Bulgogi

Bulgogi is another food I had the opportunity to taste prior to going to Korea in a small restaurant in Ottawa. It is a delicious dish made by grilling thin slices of marinated beef.

My roommate Diana took me once to try a barbecue restaurant that served bulgogi meat which you could grill yourself on a hot plate at your table. It came in 8 different marinades, with mushrooms and other vegetables for grilling. Once your grilling was done, you would take a lettuce or other green leaf and wrap the content in it.

It is a dining experience I highly recommend!

Ramen

For those who would not know what this is, it's a noodle soup in a meat or fish broth, with miso or soy sauce and various toppings, such a sliced pork, dried seaweed and green onions.

Ramen is already quite popular on the North American continent in its instant form. While Koreans are not credited with the invention of this dish - it is credited by some to the Chinese, by others to the Japanese - there is no contest that this is extremely popular in South Korea. Some time after my arrival, Koreans asked me "Have you had ramen yet? It's delicious, right!"

The instant version, which you can find at most Korean grocery stores and which made up a big part of my diet at the apartment during the month, seems to be much more meal worthy than its American counterparts.

I found a package that wasn't too spicy to which I would add some fish, mushrooms and other vegetables before finally cracking an egg in. It was truly delicious.

Kimchi jjigae

Kimchi jigae is a stew made with kimchi and various other ingredient, like onions, tofu, pork or seafood. It is one of the most common stews here.

I had the chance to taste this delicious stew when I was invited to share a meal with Koreans who were on vacations at Jeju Island.

Dakgangjeong 

Dakgangjeong, Korea's take on crispy fried chicken, seems to be a traditional after hours meal. I had it on many occasion while in this beautiful country. It is often offered in various seasoning, either dry or sticky tossed in a sauce, and coupled with beer.

The most memorable time was during a late evening when I shared take-out fried chicken and beer with Koreans who were staying at my hostel. Reminded me highly of good times had around shared nachos platters at bars back home.

Hotteok

This delicious street food has left me hunting for it since the first time I tried it. It was recommended by the American couple who hosted me in Busan. I finally had my first taste of it when I victoriously found it at the traditional market around the Jagalchi area in Busan.

It is a small pancake stuffed with brown sugar, nuts and cinnamon. It is then fryed on a greased griddle. A real treat that reminded me loosely of beaver tails back home. Yum!

Soju

Soju is the most well known alcohol from Korea. It has a high percentage of alcohol and is quite cheap. It reminded me somewhat of sake. One way to drink it is to mix it with beer or soda (similar to Sprite). Normally, you put a little soju and dilute with your other drink. Koreans I was with joked that as the evening goes on, the proportion tends to shift.

Soju is extremely tricky as it doesn't taste much and you don't tend to feel its effect until you try to stand up. Notice the use of "try" here. Definitely stay on the safe side the first time you consume this, or you might just have to sit down for a while to let it pass.

Makgeolli

I tasted makgeolli on Jeju Island and have failed to find it elsewhere, much to my dismay.

It is a rice wine the color of milk, that has a sweet and tangy taste. Being unfiltered, it contains lactic acid and good bacterias found in yogurt as well as some vitamins and fibers. Plus, its alcohol content is closer to that of a beer than of wine. It's refreshing and a much safer option than the tricky soju if you like to keep your senses about.

Lotus Lantern Festival

Being in Seoul in May, meant that I was in time for many of the Korean festivals. However, as I explained in a previous post about the sinking of the Sewol, the ambiance in Korea - and particularly in Seoul - was quite somber. With the proclamation of National Mourning, most festivals were cancelled. This being said, the Lotus Lantern Festival, which is highly symbolic, was maintained and turned its focus on honoring the victims.

The Lotus Lantern Festival is held every year on April 8th (of the lunar calendar) in honor of Buddha's Birth. Lotus-shaped lanterns are hanged across Seoul for several weeks before the festival, which officially kicks off with the lighting of the Jangeumdang (a large lantern that symbolizes Buddhism and Buddha's Birthday), at Seoul Plaza. The celebration continues with various Buddhist programs and activities and ends with a lantern parade along Jongno Street in the heart of Seoul.

This festival started off as a traditional Korean folk festival centuries ago during the Goryeo Period, when Buddhism was ancient Korea’s official religion. Today, the festival maintains the tradition of making and hanging lanterns as symbolic offerings of light, wisdom and compassion in a world too often filled with darkness and suffering.

Being in Seoul in time for the Lotus Lantern Festival (from April 25 to May 11 2014), I attended the parade along Jongno Street with my roomate Diana and some friends. It was truly an impressive sight with thousands of lit lanterns of all size and shapes and, more specifically this year, yellow lanterns with ribbons bearing the names of the Sewol's victims.

Apart from the parade, I also had a chance to see the many lanterns hanged along the Cheonggyecheon Stream in Seoul and exposed in the courts of the Beomeosa Temple in Busan.

The festival is generally made up of many events, including ceremonies, performances, exhibitions and parades. I am not sure if they were held this year or cancelled, but I didn't attend them.

And one last picture, just because.

Seoul: A city of art

There are a few things that stroke me about Korea, one of them was the artistic presence. Art seemed to be everywhere in some very minute detailing. I did wonder at one point if Seoul, as a city, was simply obsessed with anything aesthetic.

(Strange family - To be see in the streets of Seoul around City Hall)

I had not expected my stay to be so centered on art, but there was hardly a thing I could do against it... It was everywhere. From extensive galleries to cozy bookstores/cafés, from streets sculptures to displays in shopping centers. Many of these pieces were so interesting that you just had to stand and observe, pondering.

Seoul Museum of Art (SeMA)

(Video of a late night worker pacing corridors alone)

At the time of my visit, the museum boasted some exhibitions that really caught my fancy. The one that called to me the most explored the concept of identity. Among the pieces on display was a video recording of a boat captain calling out to the people walking the shores of the Hangang and the people subsequently calling out to the captain. I found there was something very deep about it and it evoked a strong response in me.

The exhibition seemed to explore so many aspect; your identity as a foreigner, a woman, a migrant, etc. Among other notable pieces was a row of portrait blurred beyond recognition and blue-toned videos of late night workers pacing corridors in all their loneliness.

Many questions came to mind. Who are we? Who are the royal they? What are our purpose? What connects us all? What makes us unique?

(Portraits blurred beyond recognition)

Another art piece that called to me, this time  from another exhibition, was a canvas on which were mounted rows of sequins. They reflected light differently based on their alignment and created interesting 3-D illusions despite the piece being entirely flat. That was a surprisingly ingenious use of materials.

I think smart is a word I would use to describe quite a few of the art pieces I had the privilege to see during my stay in Seoul. They were truly engaging.

(Part of the Identity exhibition)

You can visit SeMA's website here.

Gallery Hyundai

I walked past this unassuming gallery and almost missed it, which would have definitely been a loss for me. I tentatively walked in, unsure what this place was about and even if the public was welcome. I half expected to be chased out with a broom. I suppose I would have liked a big sign with Welcome written in capital letters.

At the time of my visit, the work on display was that of Chilean artist Iván Navarro. Once again (you will remember my earlier excitement at the use of sequins) I became thoroughly excited with what I saw. The pieces on display made such a creative use of mirrors, neon and other material! Think, by using the reflection of the one-sided glass, the artist created infinite reflections of neon constructions. I had never seen the like.

You can visit Gallery Hyundai website here. The gallery is close to Gyenongbokgung Palace and the Blue House. In fact, the whole neighborhood is worthy of a stroll and some fair bit of exploration.

(Scrunched people - To be see in the streets of Seoul around City Hall)

The Jeongdong Theater

Opened on June 17, 1995, Jeongdong Theater is the first modern theater in Korea. Despite being told that this theater was mostly geared toward tourist, I was eager to attend a performance when I was invited by Diana and her mother.

We went to see a performance called Miso, which was based on "MISO: Baebijang-jeon", a classical and satirical novel written by an unknown author of the late Joseon Dynasty. It was presented in the format of a musical, with a clever use of screen projections. It was beautiful and enchanting.

Basically, the story is about this official that goes to Jeju Island. There, during a party with much alcohol and women, he lectures his colleagues about their behaviors. He eventually swears he can't be seduced, which leads his superior to pay the legendary beauty of the island to seduce him.

You can go to their website here.

(Pixelated carriage - To be see in the streets of Seoul around City Hall)

The Palaces of Seoul: Changdeokgung

Changdeokgung is located in the Jongno District which was, in itself, a pleasant walk with its nice cozy bookstores and tiny green nurseries. Jongno is one of the oldest cities of central Seoul and is now an important financial and cultural center. It boasts many major attractions and landmarks, such as Bukchon Hanok Village, the Blue House, as well as other palaces, museums and mountains. The area is also also home to major governments and corporation's headquarters.
Changdeokgung is the second palace I visited in Seoul.

The Ferry Tragedy

I arrived in South Korea at a strange and sad time. Most scheduled festivals were cancelled in light of the National Mourning that had just been decreed for the lives lost on the Sewol, a ferry linking Incheon and Jeju, which sank off the coast on April 16th, 2014. You might have heard about the incident, as it made international news. This tragedy cost about 300 lives, mostly high school students on a school trip to Jeju Island, the popular holiday destination. Probable causes for the capsizing are an excessive veering, the strength of current, an overload in cargo and an improper securing of the goods.

(Yellow is the color of remembrance)

 

Blue House

First thing first, I did not get to go inside the Blue House. I merely managed to stand on the outside, dejected at my bad timing. Indeed, I happened to be there during their summer holidays and there were no visits for the whole month I spent in Korea.

The Blue House, or Cheongwadae, is a complex of buildings, which includes the residence of the President of the Republic of Korea. It would have been an interesting visit, if just to assuage my curiosity.

I was impressed despite not being able to set foot inside the complex. Let's just say the guards posted on the outside had little in common with the actors parading at Deoksugung... There was just something impressive in the air. I suspect it was mainly in the details, from the shine of their shoes to the rigidity of their posture. Even the ones that were not in uniform and tried to be helpful gave off this aura of competency that you don't see in the police patrolling the street, which are mainly young men doing their mandatory service.

I'm sure this would have been a worthwhile visit. Word of advice though: be sure to visit their webpage to reserve your spot a fair bit in advance as, when the Blue House is open for visits, the spots fill in rather quickly. Let's say it's not a show up the day of thing.

The Blue House is close to Gyenongbokgung Palace and Gallery Hyundai, a favorite of mine. In fact, the whole neighborhood is worthy of a stroll and some fair bit of exploration.

Hangang

I have quickly mentioned the Hangang, or Han river, in one of my previous posts about Korea when I was describing my area of residence.

To put things in perspective, the Hangang is the fourth longest river on the Korean peninsula at an approximate length of 494 kilometers. It is made of two smaller rivers flowing from mountains to the East and converging near Seoul.

 (Han river to the left)

You might wonder why I'm bothering to write a post about this particular river. Well, like other major rivers (I'm thinking of the Gange, the Nile and the Danube as well as the St. Lawrence closer to home), the Han river has played an important role in Korean history. This river was highly coveted as it constituted a trade route with China via the Yellow Sea. And let's not overlook the fertile lands on its banks.

The river was under the control of various sovereigns up until the Joseon period when it became the primary waterway of the new Korean capital of Seoul, then known as Hanyang. While, in history this river was useful for transportation purposes, it is no longer the case as it is situated between the two Korean nations and civilians are barred entrance because of the political situation. While the Hangang largely belongs to the Republic of Korea, its effluence in the Yellow Sea is situated a few nautical miles from North Korea and some of the river's tributaries are actually located there. During the war, the Han Bridge crossing the river was destroyed by the South Korean army in order to slow the North Korean troops. This also destroyed the hopes of thousands of citizens to escape.


At the beginning of South Korea as a country, the river became extremely polluted by the new industries and the impoverished population. It became a convenient spillway for refuse. The usage of the river has since then shifted to a more leisurely purpose and the last decade has seen government sponsored environmental efforts to clean it up. It is now a location of choice for pedestrians and cyclists.

 (Walking by the river, under the many bridges)