Boat ride of Hell

Dear American woman I met in Panglao,

I don’t remember much of you, except that you were relatively young, maybe 28 years old. You were blond and had, perhaps, an American accent. You also had words tattooed on your forearm, but I did not make them out.

I am very thankful for the help you tried to provide me in the streets of Panglao. I’m also very sorry, as I must have appeared completely crazy to you that day. You most likely approached me because I looked relatively distressed as drivers were calling prices at me trying to get me to hire them to take me back to Tagbilaran. I was flustered despite the fact that the prices they were quoting were fairly regular and reasonable prices.

I will agree with you that there was apparently no reason for me to make a scene. Truth is, I wanted to be left alone. I was even considering going to the police to report a situation that had happened to me earlier. But, first and foremost, I needed a bit of time to recuperate from what I would later refer to as “The boat ride of Hell”. I was not ready to be assailed by the constant stimulation tourists experience in Filipinos streets.

I wish now that I could have formulated clearer thoughts. That I could have explained to you what was wrong. Maybe you would have taken me to a shop where we would have had a coffee and I could have gone through the events of the afternoon to make sense of them. But these events, the general cultural shock and the homesickness got the best of me at that particular moment.

You see I woke up early that morning in Cebu, grabbed my bags and happily made my way to the bus station to catch a bus that would take me to Oslob for a swim with whale sharks (after I had failed to see them in Palawan). I wanted to be on one of the higher end buses, but I got put on a regular non AC bus for almost the same price. I didn’t mind though, I was going to see whale sharks! It was so exciting!

Once it was over, I headed to the side of the street where I would catch my bus, which would take me back to Cebu in time to catch one of the ferry. I was told by one of the guys from the resort about an alternate ferry that would take me straight to the island from here. This would save me time and money. I wasn’t sure I wanted to do this… The amount of pressure the guy was putting on me should have been an indicator that something was wrong (of course, I learned later these guys get commissions anytime they bring unsuspecting tourists). I got pressured the whole time I was waiting for my bus and finally gave in. I was talked into taking the ferry, despite my gut feeling. This proved to be a horrible mistake. 

I could have comfortably made my way back to Cebu where I would have taken a comfortable ferry to Tagbilaran. It would have cost very little. Instead, I found myself pushed into a boat with a dozen other tourists. This boat was not meant to cross the channel. Within 30 minutes, we were all soaked from head to toe. By an hour into the trip, we were shivering. Full waves crashed into the boat, making it impossible for our clothes to dry. My luggage got completely soaked by seawater, which damaged and ruined quite a bit of equipment.

About three hours into the trip, the bench I was sitting on – which turned out to be rotten – gave way and one of the Danish fell in the water. He was lucky to not have hit his head on one of the bamboo floaters - his chances of drowning would have dramatically increased. We fished him out. If I hadn’t been holding on to something at the time, I would no doubt have needed to be fished out as well.

Everyone was wondering if the boat would make it to shore. We didn’t have life jackets. When I looked around, I could see the fear in other people eyes. Some of the girls were crying. One woman was sick and went through all the plastic bags we were carrying.

I spent the rest of the trip considering the situation. I evaluated the shore behind us to be about 3 to 4 kilometers away. The other shore must have been 8 or more kilometers away. Even good swimmers would not be able to make it and that was without even considering the waves. I looked at people around me, trying to figure out who would be able to remain calm if the boat did go under. Who would be good enough swimmers to stay afloat? Who would need to be towed? I tried to take notice of other boats in the distance; there was none. This route wasn’t used often it seemed. I noticed the boat wasn’t equipped with a communication device. Our odds were not great if the boat did sink. One could only hope this barge would hold. These were not nice thoughts to have.

Eventually, passengers asked the captain to stop the boat and one by one they climbed down the latter into the sea to relieve themselves. People turned their heads to give them a bit of privacy. When everyone had gone, the boat went forward once more.

Thankfully, we finally made it to Bohol. We were dropped, not at the pier, but at a random beach in Panglao. From there, I had to find my way to Tagbilaran on the opposite end of the island.

All in all, this ordeal took three times the time and cost five times the price of my intended trip through official channels. Once safe on solid ground, I was relieved and furious at the same time. I could have cried in anger, if crying was something I was prone to do. I wanted to go to the police to report this crook of a captain, but I could not find them. I was being called by taxi and tricycle drivers. I was upset and distressed, and nobody was giving me any space. 

That is when you intervened. Yet, you see, I was upset not because of what they wanted to charge me, I was upset because I needed space. I didn’t need a transport right away. What I needed was time to process what had just happened.

I am thankful for your good intentions. I am sorry that I appeared so crazy, but what I really needed at the time was to feel safe again. After this incident, I became paranoid of everyone who smiled at me or said hello. That is how I knew I had to leave soon and that I had two choice: head on or head home. 

I decided to head on. If my experience in the next country proved to be no better, I would then head home.

 

I should have trusted my instincts and I hope next time I have the wisdom to do so.

While I am thankful for your good intentions when you approached me, I wish you had said something along the lines of “It looks like you are having a bad day. Come let’s have a coffee and you can tell me all about it. Then we can figure out what your next step will be.” Then again, how could I have expected you to see past the situation to uncover to real cause of my distress?

 I am still thankful and I do sincerely wish you the best on your own journey.

A.

Baker's Hill, the Penal Farm and Baywalk

Baker's Hill

We made a quick stop by Baker's Hill and its beautiful grounds. It was a nice walk and I got to have some tasty foods from a stand. There are many tables and the place would be ideal if you have children as there are many statues geared toward children as well as a nice playground.

Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm

Iwahig, the prison without walls... Now that is a concept that really sparked my interest! This minimum and medium security prison is situated on 45,000-hectares of land nestled in between mountains and ocean. It has no walls and its boundaries are marked off by a fence. The inmates are allowed to police and govern themselves, and there families can live on the farm as well. Inmates can also opt to learn a trade while they do their time. This is a win-win situation, as while the inmate learns a trade, the government has the opportunity to recoup the money for the prisoner's upkeep. Once the government has deducted the monies owed to it, the remaining money goes back to the inmate and their family.

I will admit that from my point of view, it was strange to drive through this farm, with the inmates walking freely about. Yet, if the system does work? It sure gave me a lot to think about and I wouldn't mind seeing the Canadian government piloting such a project rather than enforcing harsher policies.

While we drove through, every single inmate we drove past saluted us. I was taken aback by this interaction. It was refreshing though, reminds you first hand that the inmate are humans. I asked my uncle about escape attempt. He says it doesn't really happen here, since life is pretty good for the inmates and they get to have their families with them while they serve their time.

Baywalk

(Tasting new foods together)

The Baywalk is a nice place to have a stroll or to bike. They have also been relocating the night market there, so it's especially lively at night. We went there, the four of us, for a night stroll. I ended up tasting some pretty sweet street food, including urchin and a delicious kind of fresh seaweed (salty beads lining a stem, not sure how it's called).

(Tasting sea urchins)

Honda Bay Island Hopping

 (That stern face I had, I blame it on the sun!)

A very popular activity in Palawan is island hopping around Honda Bay. With my cousin and his parents, we chartered a boat and headed out. It was a nice and relaxing day. We swam a bit around and enjoyed the sun before hopping to another island. Tita Carmen had brought a picnic and now I should say that Tita Carmen is quite a good cook. So I got to enjoy the beach, the sun, the sea AND good food. The water was quite clear and I enjoyed seeing the fishes and the fans. I even got bit by a territorial turtle wish when I swam too close to its house. It seems a million time more scary when you get bit by something underwater... Took me everything not to squeal. It's not that it hurt, it really didn't, it just not something you expect.

The day was quite uneventful as it should be... Except maybe for  that one time, we swam out and we were like 8 meters from the shore when Oliver turned to me and asked me if I had my shoes on. He looked horrified when I said no. In Canada, you only swim with shoes if there are a lot of pointy rocks... I guess I didn't learn my lessons in Australia where everything wants to kill you. It was my turn to be horrified to learn there are super poisonous fishes that hang on the sea floor and look like rock. Actually, they look like this:

This, my friends, is a stonefish... No, not a rockfish. A stonefish. With their spines, can deliver a painful sting that can be lethal. They are the most venomous fish in the world (by the way, did you now there are more venomous fishes than venomous snakes?). The sting causes not only excruciating pain, but also rapid and sever swelling which may result in tissue necrosis. It all depends on the depth of penetration and the number of stings. The venom can also cause vomiting, muscle weakness, temporary paralysis and shock, which may in turn result in death. Respiratory support might be necessary as a result of a sting. Scary isn't it

Now, let's play Spot the Stonefish:

I will admit I chose this particular video mostly because of the moray eel at the beginning. I do love moray eels!

Horrified yet? You can read the story of this poor guy here who had to spend 6 days in the hospital after stepping on one of these cutesie. Or you can read this cool article by the National Geographic here.

Now, upon hearing I had no shoes, Oliver proceed to tell me that there could be some of these little fellas in the water. He wanted me to return to shore and put my shoes on. I said something along the lines of "Hell, no! It's safe here, I stay here". Since I didn't want to move, he swam back to shore to get them for me.

The rest of the day was pretty uneventful. Uneventful can be a good thing.

Palawan Crocodile Farm

I headed to Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Park, a.k.a. the Palawan Crocodile Farm, with tita Carmen. In the  '70s, crocodiles were hunted extensively for their skin. This resulted in a decline in crocodile population and the creation of a conservation project. Later, in light of illegal trade the mandate was widened to include other animals that have been confiscated. They also are in charge of capturing crocodile which have attacked humans. They say that a crocodile that has tasted human flesh will always attend it again, I wonder if that's true.

We were met there by one of her nephews who works for the center. You can't wander in the park on your own, so you must wait for a guided tour, which thankfully are often enough (every 30 minutes I think, but don't take my word for it on that one). The visit started in the lobby where you could see the bones of a sperm whale and of Rio, who was once the world's largest crocodile.

(Rio's bones)

Puerto Princesa's Underground River

One couldn't go to Puerto Princesa without making a stop at the Underground River, one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature since January 28, 2012. Tita Carmen arranged everything for me and I was paired with my cousin Olivier, who is a guide there.

How I Unknowingly Participated in an Official Dinner

Marilou had invited me to accompany her to an education conference, as she works for the Commission of Higher Education as assistant to a director. When I climbed into the car with them, I thought I would just wander around the grounds and make myself very small. This would explain why I had put on my plain traveler's clothes and flip-flops instead of the dress I had brought for such occasions. It's not that it was a black-tie event, but it still was more formal than what I was dressed for.

Turns out I was actually seated with them at the head table. Don't get me wrong, I have participated in official events a few times in the past, but I was always prepared for them. In that instance, I did not know what to do with myself in front of all these people - especially dressed as I was, say what you want, but wearing the right clothes can really bolster your confidence.

I also didn't know where I was supposed to sit or when I was supposed to stand. I felt quite awkward. 

Worst thing of all, the director proceeded to do me the honor of introducing me officially during her speech as "a friend from Canada". I then had to stand up and felt the eyes of the whole room turn to me. I felt really inadequate in light of this unwarranted attention. People came to see me afterward, thinking that I was an official from Canada. I had to explain to them that the help I could provide them was quite limited (I could basically only help them find public contact informations for universities, not push their projects forward).

This could really have been avoided with a few words on what to expect at the beginning of the day. If ever you do happen to pass along an impromptu invitation to a traveler, or even just a friend, for a formal event, please do advise on the type of event and formalities to be expected. It will save both you and the guest quite a headache about decorum.

This being said, I am grateful for the opportunity to assist to the conference. It was really interesting to hear about how they are implementing outcome-based education and are aiming at improving the standardization of education so that exchanges with other countries and global recognition can become possible.

Tarsier Sanctuary and Dolphin Watching in Bohol

I didn't allow enough time to spend in Bohol, mainly because I spent too much time in Manila. I really regretted this decision as Bohol had everything that was required to make me happy, including street food which will be the subject of another post.

However short my visit, I did get to see one of the things that was on the top of my to-do list and that is the Tarsier Sanctuary near the town of Corella. Sadly for me, the tarsiers had been affected quite a bit by the earthquake that had shaken up the region and had retreated further inland. Still, despite all this, I did manage to see three of them, which is much better than other travelers who came out empty handed.