Shibuya Shopping District

Shibuya was one of the first places I headed to upon landing in Tokyo. I was most curious about this legendary intersection used in the of the Resident Evil franchise for the Afterlife and Retribution installments where a massive wave of people cross from all directions in utter chaos. This is where, in the said movie, the infection spreads in Japan.

This intersection is truly as crazy as in the movie, minus the zombies. Once the pedestrian signal comes on, it’s every man for themselves. Now this intersection in most South East Asian countries would be most difficult to navigate and doing so would be asking for trouble, but with this being Japan, it does naturally keep a semblance of order. I wonder if order is in their genes.

As orderly as this chaotic intersection can be, it remains an unusual sight. A good viewing point of this migratory phenomenon is the Starbuck across the metro station, which is conveniently located on the second floor. You can watch the magic happen while comfortably sipping a coffee (if you can find a seat). With its screens on buildings, the intersection reminded me quite a bit of Time Square.

After viewing the intersection, I proceeded with my friend Y to an arcade. They were quite difficult to find, as most arcade are actually solely made-up of coin machines. They are gambling nests where people go lose both their time and their money after work. They also lose their health there, residing in a cloud of cigarette smoke. They are supposed to be quite a problem in Tokyo. The arcades we were looking for were called Game Centers, if I remember correctly, and that was where you could actually find the good old fighting, shooting and driving games. We spent some time there before moving on to a karaoke place.

They have a pretty neat set-up for their karaoke, which is surprisingly popular here. You can rent these karaoke salons by the hour with your friends. They are equipped with couches, a screen, a sound system, two microphones and a tablet from which you set the playlist – you have everything you need to sing the night away in full privacy. The rooms are also equipped with a tablet from which you can order different foods and drinks to be brought up to you, from beers, sakes and gin tonics to fried chicken, fries and other finger foods.

This was a great night and when I wanted to learn to navigate the metro on my own, I decided to make my way to Shibuya, since I figured it would be best to start with familiar terrain. On this outing on my own I found this delicious little sushi joint. Nothing complicated, it’s a bar with no chair and you order and eat standing up. This was the best sushi I ate in Tokyo and, surprisingly, the less expensive.

It goes without saying that once J got here, we came back often to Shibuya for sushi, arcades and karaoke. We spent many post-exploring nights in this neighborhood.

Visit from home

Japan was a special destination for me since I was going to meet J as well as an old pen pal, Y, there.

I landed in Tokyo two days before J was due to arrive. I wanted to get a feel for the city and its inner workings before welcoming him. I was met by Y, my pen pal when I was in high school, at the airport. While Y didn’t have much time to give us because of a large workload, she proved to be a very helpful guide to the city. She helped me find a cheaper hotel, which proved to be of good value and comfortable, and was always available to answer my questions on how to get places.

In the days I was waiting for J’s arrival, she introduced me to karaoke and arcades.

Finally, it was time to go pick-up J from the airport. I had to transfer hotel first, so my day started quite early. Once my luggage had been dropped, I made a pit stop to the grocery store to grab food for a picnic, because I was sure somebody would be starving. I figured we could be stopping in the Asakusa neighborhood to enjoy a picnic under the sakuras which were in full bloom. With provisions in hand, I headed on to the airport. At this point, I hadn’t seen anyone for a bit more than three months and, as you can expect, I was quite excited and slightly nervous.

The wait seemed to take an eternity, but he finally came out of the security control’s doors. We could officially start exploring Tokyo and its surroundings.

Things that brought me out of my comfort zone in SE Asia

- The crouching toilets, I'm afraid to say it took me a while to get the hang of them
- The toilets with no toilet paper and soap
- The knowledge that some don't use toilet paper, just their hands which they rinse off afterward without soap (ok, that one is closely related to the previous one)
- The fact that is considered rude to blow your nose, the long pinkie fingernails is for that afterall... Not just South East Asia, I have seen adult publicly pick at their nose in other first world parts of Asia as well
-  The overwhelming solicitation in the streets (from drivers, masseurs, sellers, etc.), some of the behaviors I encountered would be considered harassment back home (like being followed for three blocks...)
- The rather overwhelming presence of cockroaches
- The fact that, for major companies, it seems to be acceptable to be rude - I'm thinking notably of Cebu Airlines and the company managing the temples of Angkor
- The lack of safety measures for some transports, attractions and activities
- The chaos in the street, both with people and cars (naive me thought movies were exaggerated)
- The fact that some policemen will stand back and watch when they should be intervening or fine people for unknown offense without providing a receipt (this did not happen to me, but I met people to whom it happened)

Looking Back - Cambodia

If there are one thing you shouldn't expect in Cambodia is the staff of major attractions to actually be nice. That hasn't been my experience. You know the Western saying of the customer being always right, forget that. It doesn't even come close to it here.

However, you can expect locals to be really kind to you. I always felt really taken care of by the people outside the tourism sphere - from passengers in bus telling me when to get off, to people in restaurant helping me order and to motorbike driver charging me the actual price of a drive, not a tourist inflated drive. Locals are truly kind and the vibe they cast is so unexpected considering the poverty of their country. I have observed a great deal of things here on that account, but I think this should be kept for a future post.

I did go to a spa in Cambodia, but I went to a slightly more expensive one because I thought the atmosphere would be better for relaxing. I didn't regret that, because after the feet treatment (my feet were quite the mess) I had a very good talk with the girl about tourism in Cambodia. It seems most of the tourism in Cambodia comes from richer Asian countries and even more so the new Chinese middle-class. It would also appear that they are not just rude toward Westerners. I do think however that Chinese middle-class being a rather new phenomenon, the behaviors of Chinese tourists should improve with time and exposure to other cultures.

Enough on that subject though. I mentioned in an earlier post that I bought slightly more expensive souvenirs at the Artisans d'Angkor. Not only were the souvenirs good quality, but I knew I was contributing to a good social initiative that would keep on giving long after I was gone. This being said, like most backpackers money remains a concern for me when I travel even if I consider myself privileged. If I wasn't financially conscious, I wouldn't be able to travel. This means I can't go crazy on souvenirs for everybody and I can't give to every person who asks me on the street, even if I would like too. This being said, I always try to be fair.

Which brings me to negotiating. I found that a good rule of thumb is to start negotiation at a 1/4 of what is asked and to settle at no more than a 1/3 of the asking price. That seemed valid in markets and for tuk-tuks. Now, this might not always work and at that point, it's up to you to decide how much you want the item you are negotiating for. It's up to you to decide if you are willing to pay the asking price or if you can just walk away.

I learned that by watching a Chinese girl negotiate and riding the wave of her negotiations (negotiating is not exactly in my nature). That's how I bought a drawstring pant for $4 instead of $12. Of course, you must also be able to recognize when the asking price is fair. Like that time a motorbike driver asked for $1 for a 5 minutes ride... For sure, he was not a driver that typically catered to tourists - that makes a big difference. I guess, it's about knowing when to negotiate and when to pay up.

Also, in Cambodia and in South East Asia, drawstring pants are your best friend. In the heat, you will find that they are your most comfortable clothing option.

It is also here that I really learned the meaning of standing my ground. No choice here, if you want to keep your sanity intact you have to be firm with tuk-tuk drivers who will try to cheat you or will harass you on the streets because, sometimes, walking away is not going to solve the problem when you are dealing with an overzealous driver. I have been followed by drivers for three blocks while I was here. You have to learn how to deal with it.

Cambodia is well worth a visit. It is beautiful and lively. It has a rich history. However, it can also be a difficult country, which may cause quite a shock to you. If it gets too much, you always have the option of staying in your room for a day to read a book or something until your batteries are fully recharged and you are ready to face the bustling streets again. I learned that while I appreciate complete freedom, I have a hard time with chaos.

Ok, as for things I wish I had done, but didn't? I wish I had found the courage to seek out and try the fried tarantula. I also wished I had gone to a representation from Phare, the Cambodian circus in Siem Reap.

The way back to the airport

As my visit in Cambodia was nearing its end, I had to make my way to Japan. At first I wanted to leave directly from Siem Reap, but it became evident that the best way to proceed would be to return to Phnom Penh and fly out from there. My hostel in Siem Reap had a sister hostel in Phnom Penh and arranged a booking for me.

I took a bus toward Phnom Penh not knowing that the journey back would be much more unpleasant than the way to. I was seated beside a mother with her infant and somehow found myself with their bags piled up on top of me. I’m still not sure how this happened or why they weren’t piled on top of the father.

The next big issue was the AC being out of order. Now, in a previous post I had mentioned how the heat proved to be a challenge when it came to hydration. Being in an overfull bus with defective AC for 7 to 8 hours due to bad road conditions was definitely a bad scenario. Soon I started feeling nauseous and weak. Thankfully, I was sitting by a window, which I opened despite the dust coming in. Better the dust than the heat.

I was not the only one affected and soon the infant couldn’t take the heat anymore and started vomiting in one powerful stream that somehow managed to miss me. The scent of vomit and the threat of being used as a target by the baby only added to the unpleasant situation. Most of all, I wished the parents got off the bus and took measurers to ensure the wellbeing of that baby, because he was definitely not well – if vomiting because of the heat is bad for an adult, it’s a much worst sign for a baby.

Then as if things weren’t bad enough, the road became a parking lot in a town not too far from Siem Reap.  My ordeal was not over yet since, when I finally made it to Siem Reap, tuk-tuk drivers somehow spotted me in the bus and swarmed the doors, even preventing people from getting off.  It was horrible. You never really get used to that feeling, if anything you only get more fed up as days pass. To make matter worst, the driver got greedy and asked for a ridiculous sum. Metered taxis truly tend to be the best option for tourists.

The next day I let the hostel arrange the driver for me, I was quite done dealing with drivers. I left relatively in advance, but nothing could have prepared me for the flooded streets and the parking lot it had become. As time flew, I started worrying out as I realized there was no way I would make it on the plane. I even started to consider stopping one of the bikes that were zipping between the cars and pay them to bring me. The plane ticket to Tokyo from Phnom Penh was a rather expensive one and I did not want to have to incur this expense again.

Thankfully, my driver - sensing my panic - exchanged a few words with a policeman who waived us through in the oncoming traffic. I have never experienced anything of the sort before, but it did get me to the airport a mere five minutes after boarding cut-off time. Thankfully, the staff still processed my bags. I really did not want a repeat of my experience in Manila with Cebu Airlines.

It took me a while to get through security and, eventually, there too I was waived through. I do believe even the plane waited for me that day. Finally, I let out a sigh of relief: I was on my plane taking off for Kuala Lumpur where I would transfer to Japan.

Nightlife in Siem Reap

If Siem Reap is a favorite because of its amazing temples, a close second must be the night life on Pub Street and in the night market area. The city really comes alive at night. The contrast is so different it is almost strange. I was lucky as both the night market and Pub Street were about 500 m from One Stop Hostel, where I was staying.

First, a word about my hostel. It was a comfy, modern looking and reasonably priced. The stay would have been pretty good if it hadn't been for the two British teens who brought a guy back and had drunken sex all night in our 8 beds dorm. They were too drunk to be reasoned with it seemed and no one wanted to get the management involved. I managed to sleep through it, I wonder about the others though. Backpackers out there, that's a big no no. If you want sex, shed the extra money and get a private room for the night. You can even plan for it in advance if you know it will happen...

On Pub Street you can find Khmer and foreign restaurants. I walked along the street, but I never actually stopped to drink. Traveling solo, I rarely head in a bar alone. In the market area, you will find plenty of street food. Food is cheap in Cambodia. Still it goes without saying that street food is cheaper than restaurant food - you could get a meal on the street for about 3$.

I will admit having trouble finding the night market area. Which is somewhat silly considering how big it is and how close it was to my hostel. The market is where you can find almost everything you need, from all sorts of souvenirs to massages and other spa services. While, in an earlier post, I strongly recommended going to the Artisans of Angkor to purchase your souvenirs, the night market is the place to go if you absolutely must go the inexpensive way.

On another note, it seems the market is the place where you will see the most obnoxious tourists, made worst by alcohol. It is also were you will see the prostitutes. I have heard the sex trade it strong in Cambodia and I have no doubt it's true considering how many girls I saw working the streets. For girls, on the other hand, being hit on will most likely becomes an omnipresent and unavoidable reality at night. I'm not saying it won't happen during the day too.

As for shopping the market... Having to really control the weight I carry, I don't often buy things as it would just add to the packing nightmare I face every time. I still liked strolling around the market at night, because I do like people watching. There is something humbling about walking solo at night and watching the world go by - being truly alone in a sea of people. As you can imagine, in Cambodia and in other parts of South East Asia you don't get the same peace out of it, because as a foreigner you are never really anonymous.

Lastly, here like so many other places, you will also have to deal with people begging for money. It is sad, you would hope one never has to grow accustomed to the begging, but in South East Asia and Indonesia, I didn't have a choice. I had to learn not to let it get to me as much. This being said, begging in Cambodia is very heart-wrenching since those begging tend to be landmines victims and children.

Lists don't seem to agree exactly what positions Cambodia occupies on the dark record list of the most land-mined countries in the world. Yet, they all agree that Cambodia is right there around the top with a whooping 10 000 000 mines. You will hear stories about farmers stepping on mines in the fields and other horrifying account of landmine encounters. Most of these landmines date back to the time of the Khmer rouge. I will come back to this at a later point, since this gloomy topic isn't quite fitting for the actual subject of today's post.

One last note about night life here. The one thing I would have liked to witness up close above all would be the improvised discotheque near the highway, which I spied on the bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. It seems all it takes for locals to have some fun is to install a tarp and bring a boom box to transform a vacant lot in a discotheque. This illustrates very well the general behavior here, Cambodians don't let the lack of infrastructures stop things from happening.