Lotus Lantern Festival

Being in Seoul in May, meant that I was in time for many of the Korean festivals. However, as I explained in a previous post about the sinking of the Sewol, the ambiance in Korea - and particularly in Seoul - was quite somber. With the proclamation of National Mourning, most festivals were cancelled. This being said, the Lotus Lantern Festival, which is highly symbolic, was maintained and turned its focus on honoring the victims.

The Lotus Lantern Festival is held every year on April 8th (of the lunar calendar) in honor of Buddha's Birth. Lotus-shaped lanterns are hanged across Seoul for several weeks before the festival, which officially kicks off with the lighting of the Jangeumdang (a large lantern that symbolizes Buddhism and Buddha's Birthday), at Seoul Plaza. The celebration continues with various Buddhist programs and activities and ends with a lantern parade along Jongno Street in the heart of Seoul.

This festival started off as a traditional Korean folk festival centuries ago during the Goryeo Period, when Buddhism was ancient Korea’s official religion. Today, the festival maintains the tradition of making and hanging lanterns as symbolic offerings of light, wisdom and compassion in a world too often filled with darkness and suffering.

Being in Seoul in time for the Lotus Lantern Festival (from April 25 to May 11 2014), I attended the parade along Jongno Street with my roomate Diana and some friends. It was truly an impressive sight with thousands of lit lanterns of all size and shapes and, more specifically this year, yellow lanterns with ribbons bearing the names of the Sewol's victims.

Apart from the parade, I also had a chance to see the many lanterns hanged along the Cheonggyecheon Stream in Seoul and exposed in the courts of the Beomeosa Temple in Busan.

The festival is generally made up of many events, including ceremonies, performances, exhibitions and parades. I am not sure if they were held this year or cancelled, but I didn't attend them.

And one last picture, just because.

Seoul: A city of art

There are a few things that stroke me about Korea, one of them was the artistic presence. Art seemed to be everywhere in some very minute detailing. I did wonder at one point if Seoul, as a city, was simply obsessed with anything aesthetic.

(Strange family - To be see in the streets of Seoul around City Hall)

I had not expected my stay to be so centered on art, but there was hardly a thing I could do against it... It was everywhere. From extensive galleries to cozy bookstores/cafés, from streets sculptures to displays in shopping centers. Many of these pieces were so interesting that you just had to stand and observe, pondering.

Seoul Museum of Art (SeMA)

(Video of a late night worker pacing corridors alone)

At the time of my visit, the museum boasted some exhibitions that really caught my fancy. The one that called to me the most explored the concept of identity. Among the pieces on display was a video recording of a boat captain calling out to the people walking the shores of the Hangang and the people subsequently calling out to the captain. I found there was something very deep about it and it evoked a strong response in me.

The exhibition seemed to explore so many aspect; your identity as a foreigner, a woman, a migrant, etc. Among other notable pieces was a row of portrait blurred beyond recognition and blue-toned videos of late night workers pacing corridors in all their loneliness.

Many questions came to mind. Who are we? Who are the royal they? What are our purpose? What connects us all? What makes us unique?

(Portraits blurred beyond recognition)

Another art piece that called to me, this time  from another exhibition, was a canvas on which were mounted rows of sequins. They reflected light differently based on their alignment and created interesting 3-D illusions despite the piece being entirely flat. That was a surprisingly ingenious use of materials.

I think smart is a word I would use to describe quite a few of the art pieces I had the privilege to see during my stay in Seoul. They were truly engaging.

(Part of the Identity exhibition)

You can visit SeMA's website here.

Gallery Hyundai

I walked past this unassuming gallery and almost missed it, which would have definitely been a loss for me. I tentatively walked in, unsure what this place was about and even if the public was welcome. I half expected to be chased out with a broom. I suppose I would have liked a big sign with Welcome written in capital letters.

At the time of my visit, the work on display was that of Chilean artist Iván Navarro. Once again (you will remember my earlier excitement at the use of sequins) I became thoroughly excited with what I saw. The pieces on display made such a creative use of mirrors, neon and other material! Think, by using the reflection of the one-sided glass, the artist created infinite reflections of neon constructions. I had never seen the like.

You can visit Gallery Hyundai website here. The gallery is close to Gyenongbokgung Palace and the Blue House. In fact, the whole neighborhood is worthy of a stroll and some fair bit of exploration.

(Scrunched people - To be see in the streets of Seoul around City Hall)

The Jeongdong Theater

Opened on June 17, 1995, Jeongdong Theater is the first modern theater in Korea. Despite being told that this theater was mostly geared toward tourist, I was eager to attend a performance when I was invited by Diana and her mother.

We went to see a performance called Miso, which was based on "MISO: Baebijang-jeon", a classical and satirical novel written by an unknown author of the late Joseon Dynasty. It was presented in the format of a musical, with a clever use of screen projections. It was beautiful and enchanting.

Basically, the story is about this official that goes to Jeju Island. There, during a party with much alcohol and women, he lectures his colleagues about their behaviors. He eventually swears he can't be seduced, which leads his superior to pay the legendary beauty of the island to seduce him.

You can go to their website here.

(Pixelated carriage - To be see in the streets of Seoul around City Hall)

The Palaces of Seoul: Changdeokgung

Changdeokgung is located in the Jongno District which was, in itself, a pleasant walk with its nice cozy bookstores and tiny green nurseries. Jongno is one of the oldest cities of central Seoul and is now an important financial and cultural center. It boasts many major attractions and landmarks, such as Bukchon Hanok Village, the Blue House, as well as other palaces, museums and mountains. The area is also also home to major governments and corporation's headquarters.
Changdeokgung is the second palace I visited in Seoul.

The Ferry Tragedy

I arrived in South Korea at a strange and sad time. Most scheduled festivals were cancelled in light of the National Mourning that had just been decreed for the lives lost on the Sewol, a ferry linking Incheon and Jeju, which sank off the coast on April 16th, 2014. You might have heard about the incident, as it made international news. This tragedy cost about 300 lives, mostly high school students on a school trip to Jeju Island, the popular holiday destination. Probable causes for the capsizing are an excessive veering, the strength of current, an overload in cargo and an improper securing of the goods.

(Yellow is the color of remembrance)

 

Blue House

First thing first, I did not get to go inside the Blue House. I merely managed to stand on the outside, dejected at my bad timing. Indeed, I happened to be there during their summer holidays and there were no visits for the whole month I spent in Korea.

The Blue House, or Cheongwadae, is a complex of buildings, which includes the residence of the President of the Republic of Korea. It would have been an interesting visit, if just to assuage my curiosity.

I was impressed despite not being able to set foot inside the complex. Let's just say the guards posted on the outside had little in common with the actors parading at Deoksugung... There was just something impressive in the air. I suspect it was mainly in the details, from the shine of their shoes to the rigidity of their posture. Even the ones that were not in uniform and tried to be helpful gave off this aura of competency that you don't see in the police patrolling the street, which are mainly young men doing their mandatory service.

I'm sure this would have been a worthwhile visit. Word of advice though: be sure to visit their webpage to reserve your spot a fair bit in advance as, when the Blue House is open for visits, the spots fill in rather quickly. Let's say it's not a show up the day of thing.

The Blue House is close to Gyenongbokgung Palace and Gallery Hyundai, a favorite of mine. In fact, the whole neighborhood is worthy of a stroll and some fair bit of exploration.

Hangang

I have quickly mentioned the Hangang, or Han river, in one of my previous posts about Korea when I was describing my area of residence.

To put things in perspective, the Hangang is the fourth longest river on the Korean peninsula at an approximate length of 494 kilometers. It is made of two smaller rivers flowing from mountains to the East and converging near Seoul.

 (Han river to the left)

You might wonder why I'm bothering to write a post about this particular river. Well, like other major rivers (I'm thinking of the Gange, the Nile and the Danube as well as the St. Lawrence closer to home), the Han river has played an important role in Korean history. This river was highly coveted as it constituted a trade route with China via the Yellow Sea. And let's not overlook the fertile lands on its banks.

The river was under the control of various sovereigns up until the Joseon period when it became the primary waterway of the new Korean capital of Seoul, then known as Hanyang. While, in history this river was useful for transportation purposes, it is no longer the case as it is situated between the two Korean nations and civilians are barred entrance because of the political situation. While the Hangang largely belongs to the Republic of Korea, its effluence in the Yellow Sea is situated a few nautical miles from North Korea and some of the river's tributaries are actually located there. During the war, the Han Bridge crossing the river was destroyed by the South Korean army in order to slow the North Korean troops. This also destroyed the hopes of thousands of citizens to escape.


At the beginning of South Korea as a country, the river became extremely polluted by the new industries and the impoverished population. It became a convenient spillway for refuse. The usage of the river has since then shifted to a more leisurely purpose and the last decade has seen government sponsored environmental efforts to clean it up. It is now a location of choice for pedestrians and cyclists.

 (Walking by the river, under the many bridges)

The Palaces of Seoul: Deoksugung

Just so you can position yourself better, Deoksugung Palace is a short walk away from City Hall station in downtown Seoul.

A few facts

Deoksugung is a walled compound of palaces where members of the Korean royalty resided until the colonial period at the turn of the 20th century. It counts among the Five Grand Palaces that were built by the kings of the Joseon Dynasty.

Deoksugung Palace originally belonged to Wolsandaegun (1454~1488), the older brother of King Seongjong (1469~1494) of the Joseon Dynasty. It became a proper palace when Gwanghaegun (1575~1641) ascended the throne and gave the palace the name Gyeongungung in 1611. Afterwards, the name was changed back to its original title of Deoksugung.

Notes from my visit

As I had expected from my first palace visit, there was a grandeur rivaling some of the well known western castles. It was hard not to notice the stark contrast between the palace and it surroundings of concrete.

It seems that walking along the stone wall is a popular activity for workers of the area on their lunch breaks to escape the concrete jungle. I encourage you to follow this same road to explore the neighborhood. In fact, this walk will eventually take you to what is left of the Russian Legation building. Only the tower, the basement as well as the hidden passage leading to Jeonggwanheon in the Deoksugung Palace remain today. The building was restored in 1973 and stands above a nice park at the back of the palace. This being said, I don't think you can go inside, at least I couldn't on the day of my visit.

The Russian Legation building is where King Gojong and the Crown Prince fled on February 11, 1896 after the assassination of Queen Consort Min to avoid suffering the same fate. It is on October 8, 1895, that a band of fifty Japanese men armed with sword neutralized a unit of the Korean Royal Guard. Twenty of these men entered the queen's wing and pulled all the women outside to be questioned. Their aim was to identify the queen and assassinate the woman who was considered such a grave threat to Japanese domination of the Korean Peninsula.

 (What remains above ground of the Russian Legation)

The buildings

The buildings inside are a great display of traditional Korean architecture. If you visit, do pay close attention to the details of the canopies and the painted wood used in the construction.

The one building that sticks out in terms of architecture is Seokjogwan, with its Greek architecture. Seokjogwan had many purpose throughout its existence. Now, the east wing serves as a Palace Treasure exhibition, and the west wing is used as part of National Modern Arts Center.

Another building of interest is Junghwa Hall, one of the historical centers of Deoksugung. It was the center of politics during the period of Daehanjeguk (the Great Korean Empire) and served as the backdrop to critical discussions on national affairs among the country’s great leaders. When you visit it, pay special attention to the two dragons that decorate the canopy above the throne of the king.

Finally, Jeonggwanheon was the first western style building built in the palace in 1900 and this is the entrance to the secret passage to the Russian Emissary mentioned above.

Also, while you are on the grounds of Deoksugung, I would advise taking the time to visit  the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. The museum has four locations: Gwacheon, Seoul, Deoksugung and Cheongju. The visit to the Deoksugung location is included in the price of the palace entrance.

Bring your camera

A private company sponsors the change of the guards. In this neat display, actors portraying Josea-era guards take their roles very seriously as they parade in the court. If you manage to get close, this could make for some very good pictures.

Also, if it strikes your fancy, you can rent traditional costumes to ensure that you bring home that priceless portrait.

My visit of Deoksugung opened my appetite and I found myself walking up the street, along the stone wall, until I found a nice place to have some delicious Dolsot Bibimbap. Bibimbap would become one of my restaurant staple, as you will be able to read in one of my upcomig posts.

After my lunch break, I did some more walking which brought me to a bookshop where I purchased a children story about a rabbit in order to practice reading. I must say, Korean has the advantage of having an alphabet. It makes it easy to learn to pronounce the sounds behind a symbol. However, it doesn't make it easier to actually learn vocabulary.

From there, I sat at a canal to read until I got approached by two students who bravely asked me if they could practice their English with me. So we spent some time chatting about just about anything. Considering how shy Koreans are, the students displayed a lot of courage in approaching me!

Finally, after a full day, I headed back home to the apartment.